TheHibberts

Moroccan Thumbnails - October 2001

TheHibberts

Where we went

In October 2001, we went to Morocco for a short winter break. We went with Exodus Adventure Travel and our route is highlighted in blue on this map. We arrived just as the Americans started dropping bombs on Afghanistan, so kept a low profile. However, the Moroccans were really friendly and we never encountered any resentment. I wonder whether this would still be the case today. I have far more photos than I could reasonably display here, so let me know if you would like to see more - use the email address at the bottom of the main page to contact me. Click on any of the thumbnails below to open a new window with a larger copy of the photo. You can step through them all if you like.

Our trip started in Casablanca, where we visited the Hussein II Mosque, which is one of the few that is open to non-muslims. It was fascinating to find out a little about their religion and rituals and to compare the simplicity of the mosque's interior to a typical cathedral. The area nearest the coast was considered highly sacred and so there were religious police there to make sure that nobody went near the crash barriers; any transgressors were shrilly whistled at. From Casablanca we went to Rabat and visited the mausoleum of Mohammed V and the Kasbah des Oudaia. The kasbah was painted in bright blues and was very peaceful - plenty of picture postcard shots.

We then headed on to Meknes, a charming town where we spent our second night. There were magnificent tiled gateways everywhere and we were left to wander on our own. We found the local wool market, where the traders were beating the wool with thin metal rods before grading it and the local market was well stocked with all sorts of produce including plenty of mint for the obligatory mint tea (which was just as well, as none of the meat was refrigerated, so the spices and mint helped to freshen the air!). . The Bab Al Mansour is a famous gateway, but is now a gateway to nowhere (or so it seemed). We were ushered through by one of the locals and followed on to find ourselves on a building site!

The next day we headed on to Fez, stopping en route at a vast Roman town called Volubilis with ruins that stretched for as far as the eye could see. Unfortunately, they do not have enough money to care for the ruins as they would like and so there are incredible mosaics left exposed to the open air. UNESCO and other organisations are trying to help, but there is a lot to do, and in the meantime, the storks are busy making themselves at home on the top of the columns and the water lies in pools on the mosaics. It was Sue's birthday and we all went out for supper where Pip had laid on a cake and a band as a surprise. Unfortunately, nobody really liked the cake and so everybody piled their portion onto Pip's plate when she disappeared to the loo! The band was fairly memorable too as the guitarist plunked out a version of "Happy Birthday"

In the morning, we went to visit a tile factory and pottery where they made mosaic table tops as well as pots, bowls and tiles. Rather than painting a pattern onto the tiles with a glaze, there was a boy who chipped away with a pointed hammer at a glazed tile onto which he had drawn a pattern to reveal the design. We had an excellent guide in Fez, who took us around the old city and knew a lot about the history. (I'm afraid to say that I have forgotten most, if not all, of it). I'm sure that we would not have ventured so far, so confidently without him; we ended up in weaving shops, mosques and had lunch up an alleyway, in a house we would never have found had we been on our own.

We had to get up really early the next morning as we were supposed to go to Merzouga and the dessert in time to see the sunset. This is normally a long day of continuous driving, but this was not to be the case on this trip. It decided to rain for the first time in seven years. We didn't think much of this at first as we came from England where it rains all the time, so it wasn't until we stopped while the local municipality dragged another waterlogged vehicle out of the road that things finally sunk in. Rivers sprung up where there were usually none and normally dry fords became impassable. Most people just sat patiently waiting for the river to subside, but some Spaniards were trying to run a rally and kept pushing to the front of each obstacle. We eventually arrived in Merzouga well after midnight and transferred into Land Rovers to speed across the dessert to our hotel and bed.

There is more to tell when I get the time, but in the meantime click on the map to go to a website with maps, history and other useful information if you would like to find out more about Morocco



Hussein II Mosque, Casablanca
Hussein II Mosque, Casablanca
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View of Rabat from Kasbah des Oudaïa
View of Rabat from Kasbah des Oudaïa
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Mausoleum of Mohammed V, Rabat
Mausoleum of Mohammed V, Rabat
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A picture of me standing outside Bab Al Mansour, a famous gateway in Meknes
A picture of me standing outside Bab Al Mansour, a famous gateway in Meknes
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and the stables opposite
and the stables opposite
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Wool Merchants, Meknes
Wool Merchants, Meknes
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Fruit Market, Meknes
Fruit Market, Meknes
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Roman Ruins, Volubilis. A vast area, with lots of intricate mosaics exposed to the elements. The storks had made themselves at home on many of the pillars
Roman Ruins, Volubilis. A vast area, with lots of intricate mosaics exposed to the elements. The storks had made themselves at home on many of the pillars
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Hand made tiles, Fez. Each tile was individually chipped away at to reveal the desired pattern
Hand made tiles, Fez. Each tile was individually chipped away at to reveal the desired pattern. I'm sure there must be easier ways of doing this!
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This fellow spent his days wading in dye at the Leather factory in Fez. I dread to think what all the chemicals did to his skin
This fellow spent his days wading in dye at the Leather factory in Fez. I dread to think what all the chemicals did to his skin
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Myself, Robyn, Lisa and Kieran
Myself, Robyn, Lisa and Kieran
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Bab Boujloud Gate, Fez with the old mosque in the background. The tiles on the outside are blue (reflecting the color of Fez), while those on the inside are green (the color of Islam)
Bab Boujloud Gate, Fez with the old mosque in the background. The tiles on the outside are blue (reflecting the color of Fez), while those on the inside are green (the color of Islam)
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We got up at 5am to travel from Fez to Merzouga to see the desert sunset and it rained for the first time in seven years. Everywhere was flooded, so we did not arrive until the wee small hours
We got up at 5am to travel from Fez to Merzouga to see the desert sunset and it rained for the first time in seven years. Everywhere was flooded, so we did not arrive until the wee small hours of the morning
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Everybody just sat patiently waiting for the floods to subside
Everybody just sat patiently waiting for the floods to subside
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No holiday to Morocco would be complete without a trip to the carpet seller. This wonderful example (on the wall) is a Royal Berber and now sits on our bedroom floor.
No holiday to Morocco would be complete without a trip to the carpet seller. This wonderful example (on the wall) is a Royal Berber and now sits on our bedroom floor.
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Once in the desert, we headed off to the bedouin camp on camels. I dont think that we went that far as we zigged and zagged our way there. Freda and Sally lead the way!
Once in the desert, we headed off to the bedouin camp on camels. I don't think that we went that far as we zigged and zagged our way there. Freda and Sally lead the way!
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We slept out in the open air and got up in time to watch the sunrise over the desert. However, due to the rains, we missed out on a fabulous sunrise as all the dirt had been washed out of the atmosphere and our sleeping bags were soaked by the dew...
We slept out in the open air and got up in time to watch the sunrise over the desert. However, due to the rains, we missed out on a fabulous sunrise as all the dirt had been washed out of the atmosphere and our sleeping bags were soaked by the dew...
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Back down the dune to our camp site and breakfast
Back down the dune to our Bedouin camp and breakfast.
Our hosts had sung to us the previous evening and insisted that we sang as well.
They wanted to hear traditional Romanian folk songs when they heard that Sue worked in Romania, but would not believe that we knew none, so I invented one using my market Romanian
"Varza, O varza te iubeste O varza"
(Cabbage, O cabbage I love you O cabbage)
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This incredible green swathe through the desert is Todra Gorge
This incredible green swathe through the desert is Todra Gorge
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Monica, Freda, Robyn and our guide who explained how the gorge was terraced, irrigated and cultivated
Monica, Freda, Robyn and our guide who explained how the gorge was terraced, irrigated and cultivated. The wealthier families owned land nearer the stream and had first claim to the irrigation.
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The view from the top, Todra
The view from the top, Todra
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Aït Benhaddou (which is where desert scenes in the film Gladiator were filmed)
Aït Benhaddou (which is where desert scenes in the film Gladiator were filmed)
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These hay trucks were very common on the roads, and were always grossly overloaded!
These hay trucks were very common on the roads, and were always grossly overloaded!
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The Glaoui Clan controlled the main pass through the High Atlas until the Monarchy was restored. They campaigned vigorously against the reintroduction of the monarchy and all trade was banned from passing through as a result when the king returned to power
The Glaoui Clan controlled the main pass through the High Atlas until the Monarchy was restored. They campaigned vigorously against the reintroduction of the monarchy and all trade was banned from passing through as a result when the king returned to power
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Despite being severely neglected, the mosaics inside were in remarkable condition.
Despite being severely neglected, the mosaics inside were in remarkable condition.
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Our luggage was taken up to the gite near Ouarzazate in the High Atlas by donkey
Our luggage was taken up to the gite near Ouarzazate in the High Atlas by donkey
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Spot the gite!
Spot the gite!
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Jemaa el Fna (The Square of Death) in Marrakesh by night
Jemaa el Fna (The Square of Death) in Marrakesh by night
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I think that this potion smelt really bad judging by the look on Lisas face!
I think that this potion smelt really bad judging by the look on Lisa's face!
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Ashlie had her foot painted with Henna. It only lasted a few days, despite paying for the better henna
Ashlie had her foot painted with Henna. It only lasted a few days, despite paying for the better henna
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Sue gets an early look at the buffet! We ate so many tagine while in Morocco. My favourite was Chicken and Lemon, although Lamb and Apricot or Prune came a close second.
Sue gets an early look at the buffet! We ate so many tagine while in Morocco. My favourite was Chicken and Lemon, although Lamb and Apricot or Prune came a close second.
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Heaven in Paradise. Le Jardin Majorelle, owned by Yves Saint Laurent were beautiful and a welcome respite from the noise and smells of Marrakesh
Heaven in Paradise. Le Jardin Majorelle, owned by Yves Saint Laurent were beautiful and a welcome respite from the noise and smells of Marrakesh
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Another view of Le Jardin Majorelle. No trip to Marrakesh would be complete without a visit here. Id thoroughly recommend Marrakesh as a weekend jaunt from London.
Another view of Le Jardin Majorelle. No trip to Marrakesh would be complete without a visit here. I'd thoroughly recommend Marrakesh as a weekend jaunt from London.
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Essouira is a wonderful fishing port on the Atlantic coast. Full of charm and character.
Essouira is a wonderful fishing port on the Atlantic coast. Full of charm and character.
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It rained again as we headed back up the coast to Casablanca, so we stopped in El Jadida and admired the wonderful the Portuguese Cistern instead of spending the day on the beach at Oualidia as planned
It rained again as we headed back up the coast to Casablanca, so we stopped in El Jadida and admired the wonderful the Portuguese Cistern instead of spending the day on the beach at Oualidia as planned
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The group
The group
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